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The John Lobb factory is a legendary manufacturers in Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a center of footwear production in the 17th century. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory remains committed to the traditional production process developed in the Victorian era.

Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For example, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife touching the cutting table. With traditional knives, they cut the hides manually.

Production is intentionally small, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.

In line with Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only 60% of each hide is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.

The collection combines heritage designs with modern updates. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, were slightly reshaped. The Sennen double monks gained elongated straps and a thicker sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in the 1950s, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah shoes, which are produced yearly in various colors and materials.

Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb remains one of the pillars in world-class shoemaking.

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